Timeless trees in Cambodia: Ta Prohm and Sambor Prei Kuk
With their timeless trees, Ta Prohm and Sambor Prei Kuk in Cambodia offer evocative glimpses into how time and nature reclaim human endeavors. I visited both in 2019 and the experience was profoundly spiritual. It was also a deep exploration of cultural and natural history.
Ta Prohm: Part of the Angkor Wat
Ta Prohm’s storied temple is just a few paces from Angkor Wat in Cambodia, which is considered the 8th Wonder of the World. King Jayavarman VII built it in the late 12th century as a Buddhist monastery and university. Over time, its stone structures have uniquely harmonized with the surrounding natural elements.
Local lore adds an intriguing layer to its history. The precise meaning of Ta Prohm in Cambodian remains a subject of debate. In Khmer, “ta” is a familiar term for “grandfather” or an elderly, respected figure, while “Prohm” is often understood either as a personal name or title. Local tradition even hints that the temple might have been dedicated to the mother of a revered king. This dedication lends the name an air of familial honor and spiritual reverence. Historical records and linguistic studies have not produced a definitive etymology. Much of its interpretation rests on local lore and scholarly conjecture.
Ta Prohm: first a derelict archaeological site
Contrary to most other constructions within the Angkor Wat complex, Ta Prohm has not been restored at all. It is not also scrubbed clean of the tropical tree overgrowth. Instead, the intricate weave of roots and ancient stone remains intact. The mix of ruins and trees is a living testament to nature’s enduring power.
As I wandered through the paths between buildings and inside their treacherous corridors, I saw the graceful sweep of tree roots intertwining with weathered stone. They narrated a timeless dialogue : human endeavors may rise to great heights, but nature’s patient persistence always finds its way back.
The timeless trees of Ta Prohm
Towering silk-cotton and strangler fig trees have wrapped their roots around stone walls, slowly but surely merging with the temples’ architecture. The trees’ sinuous limbs cascade over doorways and weave through crumbling stones, creating an eerie and mesmerizing tableau. It’s as if the earth itself is embracing the temples, blurring the line between human creation and the wild. One needs to lift the head high to see the presence of the canopy.
Sambor Prei Kuk: The temples in the luxuriant forest
Sambor Prei Kuk is an ancient archaeological treasure that predates the grandeur of Angkor. Once the heart of the early Chenla Kingdom between the 7th and 9th centuries, this sprawling temple complex offers a unique window into Cambodia’s distant past.
Sambor Prei Kuk is a UNESCO World Heritage site that invites you to immerse yourself in its forested landscape.
To truly experience this ancient complex, be prepared to walk through the surroundings where nature plays a starring role. As you wander along the forest trails, you will encounter small, intricately crafted structures—most in ruins—that seem almost dwarfed by the towering, ancient trees. These structures are an evocative reminder of how nature reclaims its space over time.
The site still resonates with sacred meaning. I observed Buddhist monks in vibrant orange garments quietly traversing the forest—a living testament to its enduring spiritual legacy. Not far off, an international archaeological team was diligently excavating ancient remains. This intimate juxtaposition of living tradition and active historical exploration invites visitors on an almost mystical journey back to the early chapters of Khmer civilization.
The roots of fig trees
One of the most fascinating aspects of fig trees is their extraordinary root system, brilliantly exemplified by the dramatic trees at Ta Prohm and Sambor Prei Kuk. These ancient fig trees, most commonly identified as Ficus microcarpa, extend their sprawling roots over the temples’ weathered stone walls, intertwining with the architecture in a breathtaking display of nature reclaiming its space.
Botanically, these roots serve a dual purpose. Structurally, they act as a natural anchor, providing the tree with stability as they thicken and intertwine with the surrounding stones. At the same time, the aerial root system is designed for efficient absorption. Fine root hairs extend from the main roots and they absorb water and essential nutrients. This ensures the tree thrives even in challenging conditions. In their relentless search for moisture and stability, the roots spread far and wide, often extending well beyond the tree’s canopy, and adeptly grip and weave through the crevices of the temples’ ruins.
This adaptive anatomy of fig roots, as well as the aerial roots many other tropical trees, features both robust structural roots and delicate, absorptive ones. It mirrors the resilience of the trees themselves: thriving in harsh conditions, enduring centuries of both destruction and growth, and continuously reshaping their environment.
Silk-cotton trees
Silk cotton trees (Bombax ceiba) also make their presence known among the ruins of Ta Prohm. While the temple is most famously associated with the dramatic, intertwining roots of fig trees, the majestic silk cotton trees complement this natural tapestry with their broad canopies and striking blooms. Unfortunately, it was not their blooming season when I visited. Their towering forms and distinctive seed fibers add another layer to the complex interplay between nature and human construction, further highlighting how diverse plant life reclaims even the most enduring of architectural feats.
A garden by any other name
For me, Ta Prohm is a formidable garden—wild, not tamed, yet undeniably a garden. Nature cultivates its own artful expression amidst crumbling stone. The same could be told about Sambor Prei Kuk.
Both show a botanical mosaic. A variety of many indigenous species also contribute to their wild beauty. Ranging from dipterocarps to various local hardwoods and even palms, they create a lush, layered canopy around the ruins. Each species plays its role in the ongoing story of nature’s reclamation, enriching the sites’ atmosphere and reminding us of Cambodia’s rich tropical biodiversity.
For sure, Ta Prohm stands as a living symbol of the impermanence of human creations. It exemplifies the unstoppable force of the natural world, a place where history, spirituality, and the raw energy of nature converge.
Despite the grandeur and craftsmanship behind Ta Prohm’s construction, nature’s quiet persistence has reshaped it over the centuries. Roots crack the stone and push aside intricately carved walls, transforming the temples into living sculpture of decay and renewal. Seen in this light, the moss-covered figures take on the appearance of historical garden art.
Yet there is beauty in this slow takeover. The site’s preservation in its semi-ruined state makes Ta Prohm unique among Angkor’s temples. It captures a moment where history and nature exist in delicate balance.
Visiting Ta Prohm and Sambor Prei Kuk is like stepping into a dream where time stands still. The gentle rustling of leaves and the filtered sunlight through ancient trees create an atmosphere of serenity and awe, even with the abundance of tourists at Angkor Wat. These places tell stories, not just of kings and empires, but of the earth’s quiet, unstoppable reclamation.
In Ta Prohm and Sambor Prei Kuk, the timeless trees remind us that while human hands shape the world, nature always has the final word.
If you go
When visiting the Angkor Wat complex, plan on staying at least two nights in the city of Siem Reap. Dedicate at least a full day to explore the wonders of the extensively large area. I suggest hiring a knowledgeable guide and arranging either a tuk-tuk or a motorbike taxi, as there’s a lot of walking involved. And as a word of caution, beware of the tourist trap and skip the elephant rides!
Admission tickets can be pricey, and you might even need a multi-day pass. Arrive early—especially during the hotter seasons—to avoid both the heat and the crowds.
Although Ta Prohm is a bit removed from the main cluster of temples, a visit there typically takes around two hours. Bring your phone or camera. If you’re like me, every angle presents a photo opportunity. The throngs of visitors sometimes make it challenging to capture the true essence of the intertwining trees and ancient ruins. Be cautious on some paths due to stones and unstable walls. And don’t forget to pack plenty of water and a hat to stay hydrated and protected under the sun.
As for Sambor Prei Kuk, getting there from Phnom Penh is no small feat. The route winds through remote areas and challenging roads, making it difficult to navigate on your own. To have a smooth experience, arrange in advance for a knowledgeable guide. You should also have a reliable chauffeur. We visited the site on our way to Angkor Wat. We were initially unsure about making the stop since it has a lower tourist profile. However, the experience helped us to better understand the passage of time in Cambodia.
Our week in Cambodia was part of a six-week tour across Asia. The final leg took us to Chiang Mai and Bangkok in Thailand. A blog post published last year shares my account of visiting a Thai celadon factory.
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